Time
for the annual (although missed for the past several years) boating trip. This
year we decided to rent a Grand Banks 36 out of Bellingham, Washington. This is
the "Slow Dancer".
The
San Juans are simply spectacular. This is Reid Harbor and we timed our
overnight mooring perfectly.
Despite
the place being polluted with blow boats, it's tucked up a mile into a gorge
surrounded by mountains. This turned out to be a blessing as during the
night, a storm raged with 35 knot winds. We didn't feel a thing and the
rain washed off the salt spray.
The
boat came equipped with a crab fishing pot. The first time we heaved it
overboard we got crab BUT, they weren't in the pot. They were sitting on
top. Mike had done his internet research well and realized that the bait holder
(the plastic jar with the orange lid) was connected to the top of the
pot. We reattached it to the bottom of the pot.
At
Reid Harbor we hit the jackpot!
We
caught 10 Dungeness crabs! 5 of them (coincidentally the limit per day)
were of legal size.
Notice
how Mike is wearing leather gloves in the above picture. Right before I
took this picture he tried the same pose without the gloves. One of the crabs
pinched the living crap out of his finger. It was a solid pinch, but the
swearing and dancing were epic. I laughed so hard I almost fell overboard
Shortly
thereafter he got his revenge.
Nothing
can compare with crab pot to cook pot Dungeness crab. I'm almost (but not
quite) sorry I ate the crab - because normal grocery store/restaurant frozen
crab will never be as good. I'm spoiled for life.
The
next day we struck out on crab and were forced to eat steak.
Did
I mention the San Juans are beautiful?
Navigation
is pretty straightforward, however, the tidal currents change on an hourly
bases. In a boat that cruises at only 6 - 8 knots (Grand Banks are displacement
boats known as "trawlers") a 2 1/2 knot current will screw up your
plotted course in a hurry. An 8 knot current will deny you passage.
This is Deception Pass (and it is aptly named).
Underneath
that bridge an 8 knot current is either draining or filling the sound behind
it. I had to time our arrival to the minute as the Slow Dancer can only
get through it at slack water. If you miss-time your arrival you will be in for
the ride of your life (assuming you survive). The anchorage we chose on
the other side was worth it. The next morning we were treated to
prolonged view of a coyote foraging for food.
Normally
you only catch a glimpse of a coyote (as it jumps your neighbor's wall with
their cat in it's mouth).
Instead
of going back through Deception Pass (which would have meant we would have had
weigh anchor at 6 AM - not happening) we went up the back way through Swinomish
Canal. There are a few nice little weekend get-away cabins overlooking
the canal.
Not
all of them have been so well-maintained.
When
entering the curving canal you need to stay vigilant.
Right
around this bend we encountered this.
This
is the North West after all. Log rafts are common (and have the
right-of-way).
Soon
you come across the picturesque town of La Conner.
Later
we motored around the "back" side (western coast) of Orca Island.
Turns
out, Orca Island is well named.
The
goofy things are all over the place. This year they're raising 4 babies.
You can see one on the left (close to mom - look for the small dorsal fin right
behind hers)
The
whales are feeding close to shore, but the water here is over 800' deep.
We weren't the
only ones around.
Despite
being far from cities, we weren't out of data range. Note what Mike is
doing.
It's
not what you might think. He's watching (in real time) his youngest
daughter (Brooke) play college volleyball.
(after losing the first two games, they
came back and won the next three!)
The
San Juans are home to several world-class resorts. They were dumb enough
to let us dock at a couple of them. Rosario has on display the figurehead from
the clipper ship America. It was carved from a single piece of pine in
1874. In the nautical art world this is a famous piece.
Shouldna told us that.
In
case you're wondering, yes, we tried fishing.
Problem is, neither of us knows the first
thing about fishing.
One
thing important to fishing is patience. This is Mike 5 minutes after the
line went in the water.
Sound asleep.
Mike
(uncharacteristically) got into photographing the scenery.
Hazards
to navigation (besides the treacherous currents)
abound.
Like
aviation
and ships (really scary as they
move much faster than you might think)
Still,
the place is awe inspiring and the sunsets are spectacular.
In
6 days we traveled approximately 185 nautical miles. We did it on only 57
gallons of fuel (the Slow Dancer holds 400). God love a single screw,
small engine, trawler. If you ever get the chance to boat the San Juans - GO.
If you don't get a chance - make one.
